April 29

Day 359

Went in front of house at 7 am. It was pouring rain but the waves were nice. As much as I love surfing with friends, it is very soothing to go out when I am only one in water. Nobody else in eyesight in middle of the ocean. It’s very calming. Anyway I caught 3 waves. The last one was chest high.

Went out second time with Scott at the Pipe at 5:45. They were fun. Stayed a little over an hour and caught 7 waves. There were some out that were chest high mostly smaller. Scott as always caught some good ones.

Morning wave


Birds hanging out in morning and afternoon watching me.

Scott Primavera.

6 more days


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