April 4

Day 334

Very very choppy. And large. Chest-head high waves. Wind was blowing around 20-25 mph. Pouring rain and cold.. Not a lot of fun. Couldn’t get out to the big waves. It was just too choppy and too big. But I caught a nice waist size wave that I rode alllllll the way in. The surfboard I have has taken a beating the last 11 months but I spoke with my shaper yesterday and hopefully after this he will fix it because I know it’s taking in water. It has been out now 334 straight days and still floats so the guy knows what he is doing.

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Big choppy waves and a empty beach. Too choppy for my dredging boat to be out I guess.

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A One wave day.

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