Day 299
I went to J ave today to surf. One of my favorite spots. I surfed right up against the pier with Beca. They were working on it above me. It was choppy when I first went out but cleaned up. Most were in the thigh high size but a few rouge sets came through. I caught about 12 waves.
Me and Beca are surfing…Madelyn is telling us she sees a shark near us…. It was a dolphin…
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