February 10

Day 281

Almost couldn’t make it out today. Yesterday I hyperextended my knee and twisted my ankle on the first wave I caught. I kept surfing but when I got home my ankle started swelling. I thought nothing of it until I woke up this morning and my knee was aching and ankle was in bad shape. I could not put any pressure on my left leg. I thought about letting my wife pick up the last 84 days for me. But after a while I decided to give it a shot. After having a hard time putting my wet suit and left boot on I hopped across the street on one leg and paddled out. I caught one fun little knee high swell and rode it in. Woulda stayed longer but my leg was useless. Another day when I would have never gone out normally.

Limping to ocean.

Slowwwly popping up

One legged ride

Limping out of ocean.

Not too hurt to “out handstand” my daughter.


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